Andalusian Wines: Sherry and friends

To many people unfamiliar with the immense cultural diversity that exists in Spain, much of what this country embodies can be found in Andalusia. That, in part, has to do with the fact that much of how Spain exported itself for decades was through typical images associated with this southern region whose roots go back to the earliest days of Phoenician colonization. It comes as no surprise, then, that the wine it produces should come to mind when one thinks of Spain’s vinicultural tradition. That tradition can basically be summed up in one word: sherry.

Sherry is greatly indebted to the English who are the ones to have guaranteed its success overseas, but it is not the only drink available. There are also several other regions with age old traditions in the fortified winemaking world, some producing the world’s finest sweet wines. But the biggest surprise may yet be to come. Some surprising and exciting enterprises are making leaps into regular still wine, and especially in the red wine sector. Who would have guessed!

The most revered wine region the land is where sherry is made. Its official name is a far from terse: D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry-Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Most people shorten it to "Jerez" for economy's sake, thank God. Sherry is a fortified wine which means grape-based distilled alcohol is added to normal wine before the aging begins. There is a whole slew of sherries that make discovering this wine a world unto itself. Names like fino, manzanilla, oloroso, amontillado and cream may (or may not) ring a bell, but they give the consumer an idea of the vast range one can choose from. And it doesn't stop there, trust me.

Finos and manzanillas are the younger versions and tend to be lighter, crisper and more acidic. The others like amontillados and olorosos spend more time in the barrels (sometimes as long as decades) and grow darker, richer and mellower. They often have a nutty aroma and are somewhat sweeter. That is a gross simplification of sherries, but it should do for our purposes. The standard of quality as a rule here is nothing less than excellent. There simply is nothing like it in most parts of Spain and attempts to emulate it in other parts of the world have generally fallen short.

Though the English turned it into Spain's ambassador to the wine world, sherry has sometimes had difficulty finding a place for itself in the modern market. its not really a wine the way you or I would normally consider it, but it shouldn't be classified as a liqueur either. What's even more surprising is that, a vast majority of its production (80%) goes abroad, mostly to Great Britain and northern Europe, so don't expect to see many Spaniards ordering very much outside of Andalusia. Still, I highly recommend sherry. The finos and manzanillas are refreshingly dry (and excellent buys) and the others, though often quite a bit pricier, are often extraordinary for their complexity. There is a sherry for every occasion and their class and elegance are undeniable.

Some of the lesser known regions are D.O. Montilla-Moriles and D.O. Málaga-Sierra de Málaga. Though hardly household names the rest of the world, they are still easily recognizable among the fortified wine fans of countries like Great Britain and the Netherlands.

Montillas, for centuries, figured among the legendary old world wines. The word "amontillado" itself means "Montilla-style". The most characteristic of all is, however, without a doubt the sweet Pedro Ximénez. Often drunk as a dessert wine, PX, as it is often labelled, is generally not a fortified wine. There is simply so much sugar in the grape that it naturally packs a punch of up to 17% alcohol, and thus no need for distilled alcohol to be added. Pedro Ximénez wines are often thick, almost honey-like, drinks and they can be delicious, though a bit overbearing if you don’t have a sweet tooth. The grape is also used to make finos and olorosos (as well as amontillados) and even though many say they don’t match the sophistication of the best sherry further south, they certainly are perfectly acceptable.

Sweet wines are the main fare from the winemakers around Malaga too. This region, in days of yore, was world famous, with its highly appreciated nectars sailing the seven seas to tempt faraway palates. The region suffered terribly from the phylloxera plague and struggled to maintain quality during much of 20th Century, but it has been making a slow comeback. Whether they are from Pedro Ximénez or Moscatel grapes, the best part is that they are very good wines and often a great buy.
Probably the least known of the big four is D.O. Condado de Huelva, in the province of Huelva, not so surprisingly. Despite possessing its own fortified and sweet wine tradition, this small region seems to set its sights with greater intensity on young white wine market. At their best they are fresh and tasty and sold at ridiculously low prices; but that’s only at their best. Consistency is still something they will have to work on, but they are getting there.

Speaking of normal table wine, more and more I see new examples of wineries in Andalusia looking for alternatives to the fortified wine market. Part of the problem is simple to understand: 15% alcohol is still strong wine no matter how you look at it. Something new has to be done to cater to the new market.

Some wineries are harbored by the major D.O.’s like Malága, while others lurk in the V.T. category. Producing impressive samples of both whites and reds, they are slowing proving to the world that the south of Spain is more than just a haven for sherry. Foreign varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot are particularly popular. Some wines are proving to be outstanding and may end up being the answer to this Andalusia’s declining fortified wine market.

Feature written by Brian Murdock, author of the book "Let's Open a Bottle". You can contact Brian at murflo@eresmas.net.